2015 Ingrid Groiss, Gruner Veltliner, Reserve, In Der Schablau, DAC Weinviertel, Austria.
Ingrid’s rich textured Gruner Reserve In Der Schablau 2015 is a gorgeous white wine that reveals another side of Austria’s signature varietal, grown on loess, sand and gravel soils in the town of Zeirsdorf within DAC Weinviertel north of Vienna, not far from Groiss’ hometown of Breitenwaida not far from the Czech Republic border. Brilliant in detail and energy this wonderful expression of Gruner Veltliner has a decedent mouth feel and an almost white Burgundy like class and grace, it’s shows a denser and riper side of Gruner that is sensual and seductively entertaining from start to finish, it’s more a Smaragd (a dry white that is at least 12.5%) with 13% alcohol it’s a deeper wine than you’d might expect. Groiss has gained a huge following in recent years and her wines impress for their natural balance and her passion for her terrior and it’s history which clearly shine through in these wines and if you’ve not discovered her wines yet, you should asap! With a hint of white flowers, saline, mineral and almond oil the 2015 Reserve In Der Schablau starts with crisp acidity, lemon/lime and quince before opening up and filling out on the wide palate, it was aged a full 10 months on the gross lees which adds to the dimension of this glorious Gruner, it gains with every second of time in the glass with it’s pale golden hue grabbing the light while light steely notes and spice provide a nice cut. There’s wild pear, hints of fig, clove as well in this white, which saw only stainless fermentation and aging after a gentile pressing of de-stemmed grapes using vineyard (native) yeasts and 8 hours of maceration on the skins that adds a touch of tannin and savory contrast to the opulent warm vintage fruit and the medium weight body. This is proving to be a great wine, coming from 50+ year old vines, and was a brilliant companion to my Thanksgiving feast, and for which I am very grateful, drink this lovely Gruner over the next 3 to 5 years.
($38 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive

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