2019 Weingut Von Winning, Riesling Trocken, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten, VDP Erste Lage, Deidesheim, Pfalz Germany.
Always a favorite in Von Winnings lineup the Paradiesgarten Trocken Riesling is every bit as good as 90% of the GGs out there and this 2019 is a thrilling wine of class and depth with a full range of flavors, energy and exceptional length, it is crystalline, crisply dry and brilliant from start to finish. The Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten, a VDP Erste Lage or Premier Cru vineyard, is located on top of the slope right underneath the forest, with spectacular vines grown on red sandstone and with some löss and loamy soils. The Paradiesgarten is Von Winning’s coolest site just above the village of Deidesheim, and completely surrounding the Grand Cru site of Langenmorgen and is farmed 100% organic, interestingly, according to the winery, here the top soil consists of fine loamy sand, unique for this hillside. This terroir one of their most elegant sites for dry Riesling, in fact this could easily be a GG with the character it delivers, which makes this bottling, especially in vintages like this 2019 a stellar value and truly a world class white wine. I was first turned on to this wine by the famed importer and Riesling guru Terry Theise more than a decade ago now and it continues to be one of my go to Pfalz bottlings. The Von Winning Paradiesgarten Riesling is completely barrel fermented and then aged on the lees for one year, giving it a regal presence in the glass and it has an opulent mouth feel, but a firm structure that allows for extended cellaring, while offering noteworthy early drinking pressure and the mentioned remarkable length. This vintage is ripe and hints at the exotic, but has chiseled detailing and Riesling purity with vibrant array of white peach, green apple, apricot, tart pear, kumquat, key lime, kiwi and bitter quince fruits as well as rosewater, orange blossoms, saline, crushed wet flint and verbena all elevated by the natural acidity and rounded by the leesy texture, hazelnut brioche and subtle wood influence.
Weingut Von Winning, an off-shoot off the Dr Deinhard Winery, is based in Deidesheim and has some of the greatest Cru vineyards in the region in their portfolio, including the Deidesheimer Grosses Gewachs of Grainhübel, Langenmorgen, the wildly exotic Kalkofen and Kieselberg, as well as Ungeheuer, Kirchenstück, Jesuitengarten and Pechstein, the Forst GG’s. Apart from from the collection of elite Riesling sites, Von Winning has some of the world’s best Sauvignon Blanc, that must be tried to believe, as well as very good Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc or Weissburgunder as it is known locally, plus in recent years their sparkling wines or Sekt, which are all Methode Champenoise Brut style wines are outstanding too. The heavenly Paradeisgarten Trocken is sourced from all organic grapes that see an elevage in a combination of smaller 500L and classic 1200L barrels, all used, to promote transparency and purity, then it was bottled with a gentle/light filtration for clarity. These Von Winning wines are impeccably made and are some of the best in Germany, if not the whole of Europe and the world, do not miss any chance to try them and savvy Riesling drinkers will want to get a few of these Paradeisgartens. This 2019 is close to perfection and a gorgeous bottle, and I am hearing a buzz that the 2020s are just as good if not better, which makes it a great time to stock up on the Von Winning wines, especially this one. I see a few sales on the earlier vintages that are insanely good buys, but at around $30, this 2019 is outrageously under priced for what is in the glass, it is a serious Riesling and it should age another decade with ease. I could just sip and enjoy this on its own, but it deserves an evening and a meal to get the best from it, and since it’s bone dry it doesn’t need hot or spicy dishes, making great with everything from cured meats to briny sea food.
($32 ESt.) 94 Points, grapelive