2022 Malat, Grüner Veltliner, Furth, Kremstal DAC, Austria.
The crisply dry 2022 village level Grüner Furth from Malat is a racy and bracing expression of Kremstal Grüner that is everything you and 99% percent of sommeliers in the world would ever want with a steely light framed tangy palate. There’s lemon/lime, white peach and quince fruits, along with bitter almond, verbena, citron, herbs, white pepper and crushed stones details as well as mouth watering acidity, making it great with oysters, soft cheeses and poultry dishes. Exciting for the senses and absolutely pure, this pale greenish gold Grüner is totally bone dry and refreshing without being too austere or serve, thanks to quality fruit and winemaking. The Malat Kremstal Furth Grüner Veltliner comes from terraced gentle slopes set on classic loess, but with an alluvial mix with stones and gravel, that add to the subtle complexity here. I’ve had a few vintages of Malat over the the last 4 to 6 years, but this wine is my favorite so far and I highly recommend it to Grǔner fans.
The ninth-generation winegrower, Michael Malat, who in recent years took the helm here from his father, Gerald, at Malat, originally founded in 1722, in Kremstal and has given this old winery a new vigor and expressive presence in the world of Austrian wine. Just east of the main Wachau, Kremstal is located on the southern banks of the Danube River, and is a top notch terroir for complex Grüner and Riesling wines, home to many of Austria’s great producers. This deep valley is protected by the cold northern winds, though allowing for some of the warm eastern Pannonian winds that makes for a slighter riper and more concentrated wine in general, but still retaining vibrancy at the core. It is notable that as you get closer to Krems the wines really gain aromatic qualities, as Malat showcases that. Grüner is fermented typically in stainless steel, but this one sees close to 4 months in large neutral 10HL oak, and bottled quickly, which all gives the Malat Furth Grüner it’s poise, transparency and grace, very impressive, reasonably priced for the quality and totally enjoyable.
($26 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive