2014 Bonny Doon, Sparkling Pinot “Donnier” Methode Traditionnelle, California.
Randall Grahm’s red Sparkling Pinot “Doonier” Methode Traditionnelle bubbly is a wonderfully dry blend of Pinot Noir 48% and Pinot Meunier 52% with a luxurious mousse and a cascade of flavors, it will be brilliant for Fall and for holiday cuisine as well as romantic celebrations! Red bubbly from Lambrusco to Sparkling Shiraz is a thrill, but Bonny Doon’s version takes it to the next level for California, it’s pretty in fruit, fresh in character with subtle mineral and earthy complexity and elegant in form and focus. Brisk and medium bodied the Bonny Doon Doonier Sparkling Pinot starts with it’s deep garnet hue and vibrant pinkish mousse and a nose of red fruits, floral tones and faint brioche, spice and feral savory note before a palate of crisp raspberry, black cherry, dried candied cranberry, tart red peach, blood orange and steely charm along with dusty stones, saline, red apple skin and Asian spices. Fun and geeky on one hand while still giving real pleasure and charming throughout with a touch of the wild lifting it beyond the norm, I love this stuff, Randall has found a new friend in Pinot Meunier with this bubbly as well as his pure 100% Meunier still wine being a lovely effort. A recent visit to Bonny Donn’s tasting room in Davenport showed that Randall Grahm is still the master of mind expanding wines, his newest lineup is remarkable, with his Cigare Volant range showing fantastic, especially the en Bonbonne aged Le Cigare Blanc Reserve, as well as his more weird offerings that deliver spine tingling entertainment. In recent years I’ve impressed with the energy and quality of Grahm’s wines, he has had an amazing re-birth of sorts, you’ll want to check out his Sparkling Pinot and be sure to have it around for the season ahead, but also visit his tasting room just north of Santa Cruz in Davenport, it’s the Area 51 of wine! Sometimes people in the wine business take themselves too seriously and overlook Bonny Doon, this is pretentious folly, while Grahm’s wines have a sense of humor they are authentic and seriously intriguing for those with an open mind!
($36 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
