2014 La Marea, Grenache, Old Vine, Besson Vineyard, Central Coast. (By Ian Brand)
Ian Brand is a vineyard whisperer and finds wonderful old vine plots off the beaten path and he has a thing for central coast Grenache, so much so he created a Spanish inspired label just for his Grenache, or Garnacha single varietal wines as well as a single vineyard Albarino call La Marea, crafting tiny production offerings that should not be missed, like this beautiful 2014 Besson Old Vine Grenache. Benson sits just outside both San Benito and the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA’s in a no mans land that is technically in Gilroy I guess, on the Hecker Pass, it was planted back in 1910 and is dry farmed and all organic and has gained fame in the past with Randall Grahm’s Bonny Doon label, with his Clos de Gilroy certainly bringing this site to the public’s attention, but also now has the Grenache darling Angela Osborne of A Tribute to Grace crafting her own version of geniusly delicate Grenache from here, the New Zealander along with Ian both make outstanding wines, each with their own take. The La Marea is restrained and textured, but with gorgeous and pure fruitiness, this is wine of great detail and class, it reminds me a lot of Joan d’Anguera’s wonderful Altaroses Granatxa from Spain’s Montsant region. Ian Brand’s 2014 La Marea Old Vine Besson Vineyard delivers light floral tones, mineral, wild strawberry and sappy spices to start before filling out on the silken palate showing black cherry, tangy plum, pomegranate and vibrant boysenberry fruits along with dusty stones, pepper, sticky lavender/sage, minty black licorice all which highlight the terroir and the gravelly clay and loamy soils. Ian Brand is a winemaker to follow, his wines are intriguing throughout his lineup of wines, you’ll want to grab a few of these La Marea while they last, they are so tasty, but also be sure to check out his I. Brand & Family Mourvedre, one of the best wines of the year I’ve tasted, as well as his value priced Le P’Tit Paysan label, and especially his Petite Sirah and Chateauneuf-du-Pape blend, both awesome bargains. This medium weight 2014 Old Vine Grenache La Marea shows an elegant side of the grape, but still full flavored and vigorous in nature, it’s a pretty little thing to enjoy in it’s vibrant youthful best, it’s a serious effort with loads of charm that will surprise even the most hardened Gigondas fans!
($38 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive

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