nv Henri Giraud, Solera 90-16, Ratafia Champenois, France.
The fabulous Solera 90-16 Ratafia Champenois, a rare fortified wine made in Champagne shows off roasted hazelnut, candied pecan, honeyed pear, lemon oil, fig and dried apple on the rounded and almost creamy palate, making one of the most rewarding versions I’ve had to date. Ratafia Champenois, for those that have not experienced it before is a unique blend of selected Champagne must (juice) and Champagne-based Marc or Brandy (Spirit) which comes out to be 18% alcohol and must be aged at least 6 years in oak barrels, with this Henri Giraud being a Solera, multi-vintage blend that was started in 1990. Most people will enjoy Ratafia with a cheese plate after a meal as a digestive, the aged complexity here in this Solera is really intriguing and with its almost dry nature, it doesn’t cloy in the mouth, while still having pleasing concentration. That said it could go with some dessert dishes, maybe crème brulée, but best to me with aged farm cheeses. Bottled in a 500ml bottle, and never easy to find, this Ratafia is well worth searching out and is fantastic hand crafted effort, enthusiasts will want to grab a bottle at their first opportunity.
Ratafia de Champagne or Ratafia Champenois is an ultra rare specialty liqueur from the Champagne region, and not bubbly, that is a blend of half brandy made from Champagne and half grape juice from the region, similar to Macvin in the Jura and with a touch of Sherry like nuttiness. This one, from Champagne house Henri Giraud, comes from a Solera, in this case as noted from 1990 to 2016, which adds complexity and dimension. Traditional Ratafia Champenois has a golden lovely tawny color in the and a rich, complex dried fruit, nutty and marzipan layered profile, as this one does. As noted, this stuff is a result of blending the barely fermented grape juice from various vintages with the brandy, all matured in small ex-wine barrels, giving it a range of flavors that maybe remind you of a fine Tawny Port, Madeira or Marsala. This Henri Giraud Ratafia Champanois is made from a 20-year-old Solera, which gives it a slightly oxidizing edge, but perfectly balances it out, with the slight sweet tones, vibrant acidity and the smooth textural nuttiness. I’m also a fan of the bubbly here at Henri Giraud, which dates back to 1625, and who is the president of the association of craft Ratafia in Champagne, so you can be assured that theirs is top quality.
($95 ESt.) 96 Points, grapelive