2024 Impromptu, Carignano, Isola Dei Nuraghi Rosso IGT, Sardinia, Italy.
My Sardinian winemaker friend Giuséppi Còssu has expanded his lineup of Impromptu Wines with his 2024 and 2025 vintages, which includes an ancient vine white field blend from 90 year old vines, another Cannonau called Sardésco and this dark ruby 100% Carignano from old vines in the Nuraghi zone, filling out his small lot collection from his native island. While the Sardésco might have been my favorite when I got a sneak peek at these offerings, this Carignano was not far behind and I loved its bright and energetic red berry fruits, wild or feral transparency, spice, whole cluster crunch and delicate floral lift it showed on its medium/full palate that is held firm by some fine grained tannin and natural acidity. The aromas are rustic and charming, that speaks off place with a granite influence, lilac and stones, and the mouth is filling, Rhône like, with black raspberry, currant jelly, Summer plum and dusty cherry fruits, along with briar, underbrush, sage and wild fennel notes. A touch less deep than the fabulous earthy Cannonau bottlings he does, Còssu’s Carignano, only a barrel or so made, is a superb and delicious wine that begs for some grilled meat, though many would really enjoy this with a juicy burger. Timing of this write up coincides with Còssu and his family prepping for his Impromptu harvest, so I am wishing him a great and successful Sardinian pick and I hope he finds more Carignano grapes, so that this wine isn’t just a tiny one time one wine! Carignano is a historic Sardinian red grape, and is directly related to Carignan or Carignane, as seen in the Rhône Valley, the Languedoc, and even in California, and was though to have been originally from Aragon, Spain, where it is known as Cariñena, even though the Sardinians claim it as their own, as they do with Cannonau!
As noted here before, winemaker Giuséppi Còssu, with the help of Gostolai, a well respected local producer based in the Nepenti di Oliena appellation, has had access to sustainable old vine hillside grapes, to craft his Impromptu wines, which he started producing in his native Sardinia in 2019. Impromptu, named after his love of jazz improvisation, and as mentioned in my prior review, Còssu is a noted musician, a jazz drummer mainly, (a) native of Sardinia and now living on the central coast of California in Monterey part of the year that doesn’t get in the way of making his wines. Còssu is an admirer the natural wine movement, especially from Beaujolais, like the wines of Dutraive, Lapierre and Foillard, as well as some of the Loire Valley biodynamic legends, but is without a fanatical dogma in his own wines. Giuséppi has long history in wine both in his homeland where he was a sommelier and bistro owner, he also helped his grandfather make homemade wines as a kid. More recently in California, where moved back in the ’90’s, he was a Italian wine specialist from many importer, and he completed his extension enology degree in winemaking from UC Davis. His itch to make wine in his native land led him to find vineyard sources close to where he grew up and to craft wines using old world traditions and a few things he’s learned on the way. The fiercely proud Sardinian, who believes in the native varietals on the island, as mentioned, does a single varietal Monica, extremely rare, and Carignano, to go along with the set of three Impromptu Cannonau (Grenache) bottlings. There’s been some difficulty getting the full range of Impromptu wines imported, with tariffs and the such, so unfortunately these are not yet here in the States, though the plan is to bring them over soon. There’s just a few bottles left of the 2019 and 2022 Impromptu Cannonau wines spread around California, but they are worth chasing down!
($59 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive