2016 Weingut Donnhoff, Riesling Trocken, Roxheimer Hollenpfad, Nahe Germany.
The Hollenpfad Trocken is crazy good, and it is a real sleeper in Cornelius Donnhoff’s wonderful set of dry 2016 Rieslings, it should be a wine that catches your attention as it delivers GG quality and intensity that will even thrill the socks off Chablis fans, with it’s mineral driven palate and dynamic energy. Sizzling with youthful acidity and flinty crushed stones this 2016 Roxheimer Hollenpfad Trocken is beautifully detailed with brisk vibrancy showing delicate white flowers, layers of tangy and zesty citrus fruits, as well as stone fruit pit, green apple flesh and skin, a touch of yellow mango, verbena, saline infused wet rock and sea mist. Vigorous, dusty dry and electric, but with loads of crunch and extract that gives plenty of substance and depth, this is serious, slightly austere stuff from Donnhoff, maybe not as open or as concentrated as the 2015’s tend to feel, though maybe more pretty and seductive, both vintages are off the charts from Donnhoff! The Roxheimer Hellenpfad is a vineyard dominated by iron rich red sandstone, and Donnhoff uses a combination of stuck and stainless with sponti (native) ferments, employing all means to capture freshness and terroir character in each wine, they also reflect the dedication to quality and focus of Donnhoff, one of the world’s best wineries, let alone being a top German estate. Terry Theise, Donnhoff’s importer says this riveting Hollenpfad is the best yet from this vineyard, who I am to argue? This is great stuff with lingering lime, yellow peach, chamomile/herbs and subtle iodine/savory tones, look for this one to gain with 2 to 5 years in the bottle and it should go a decade and a half easy, sadly the only problem this wine has, is that it has such competition from it’s own stable mates in Donnhoff’s glorious lineup!
($40 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive

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