2009 Fort Ross, Pinot Noir Reserve, Fort Ross Vineyard, Sonoma Coast.
Fort Ross is an impressive small winery in California’s newest AVA, Fort Ross-Sea View in the wilds of the greater Sonoma Coast, very close to the ocean and an area that is a hot bed of excitement, especially for severely cool climate Pinot Noir, with Failla and Hirsch just up the road and a host of other fantastic sites very close by. Jeff Pisoni (Pisoni Vineyards), Fort Ross’ winemaker has taken these wines to the next level and his artisan touch has brought much critical acclaim as well, his wines from 2009, 2010 and the latest 2011 show great potential and his talent no question. This 2009 Reserve Pinot, Jeff’s first complete wine from the estate is magic, a stunning example of terroir driven wine and a tour de force of character, style and pleasure in California Pinot Noir. The nose has violets, earth and warm toasty oak notes along with black currants and kirsch leading to a vigorous and seductive palate of silky richness with black cherry, plum and mocha notes along with hints of mineral and red spices with touches of cola bean, vanilla and framboise that linger on and on. This wine is lively and focused with great freshness holding the flamboyant fruit in balance, and while stellar now it should drink great for another 5 years easy.
($65 Est.) 94+ Points, grapelive