2011HilbergVareij2011 Hilberg-Pesquero, Vareij, Vino Rosso, Piedmonte, Italy.
The Hilberg wines are something of a revelation, these gorgeous wines are from biodynamic/organic farming and highlight the risk rewards involved in this region, with tiny yields and gentle care these wines really do stand out. The Vareij is a unique blend of Barbera and Brachetto, each year the percentage changes from 60% Brachetto to 20%, with Barbera being the core. The Brachetto grape is used primarily is sweet and sparkling production and is only rarely used in still dry table wines, though with the right kind of farming it can really add perfume and exotic dimension to the wine and that is certainly the case with this 2011 Vareij from Hilberg-Pasquero. The nose jumps from the glass with a massive bouquet array of fresh and dried roses, violets and lavender oil along with grilled herbs, tobacco leaf and asian spices leading to a refined palate of blackberry, cherry and strawberry fruits with hints of basil, iodine and poached plum. This medium weight red shows fine tannins and crisp acidity, it is a wine that really benefits from being served slightly chilled, similar to a Beaujolais, though this wine is much more wild and nervy, drink from 2014 to 2017. This is another fun and passionate wine from Hilberg, these are super artisan wines that are lovingly handcrafted, and it shows with every sip.
($22 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive

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