1989 Louis Jadot, Chambertin Clos de Beze, Grand Cru Red Burgundy, France.
At my Easter Chinese dinner with friends and wine geeks, okay mostly wine geeks, we all brought a few bottles to share, but almost at the end of the meal with a few rounds of duck being passed about, this mysterious bottle starts coming my direction, and it turns out to be one of the finest Louis Jadot wines I’ve ever had, the 1989 Chambertin Clos de Beze. Well, yes it was surprising and a lovely surprise, I have not had much luck with Louis Jadot in the past myself, and I admit I have built up a prejudice against the big Negociants, and maybe to my own disadvantage, especially as this wine showed brilliantly, sexy and complete with full flavors and very elegant and stylish, was I eating crow or duck? Yes, the color was dark ruby, very little age showing, the palate was full and in great form with red cherry, currant and raspberry fruit, it was plumy rich in feel, sweet on entry with lovely secondary elements of dried flowers, wild mushrooms, loamy earth, without much decay, just a hint of orange rind, tea spice, a bit of leather/tobacco and fall leaves, I had have Jadot wines from this era and vintage that were tired, orange/brown and going thin, but this was not at all fading, this was by far the best I’ve tasted. I was thrilled by this Beze, it was great to go back in the time machine and explore this pretty Grand Cru with it’s generous fruit, fine tannins, still with some acidity and classic Chambertin force, and the finish was long and pure leaving cedar, Pinot fruit and wild strawberry notes, and I need to mention that the texture was silky, but the wine has plenty of vigor with life and density. As not a big fan of Jadot, and on a night with some glorious other wines, including magnums of Gerard Boulay Cru Sancerre, Marc Morey Chassagne, a bottle of exceptional Rinaldi La Coste Barolo, and the Les Vieux Clos Nicolas Joly I picked, this Clos de Beze shinned and made an impression, I stand humbled, happily, bravo Louis Jadot, drink this Beze sooner vs later, it certainly at it’s very best.
($350+ Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
