N.V. Pierre Peters, Cuvee de Reserve, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru Brut Champagne, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, France.
Rodolphe Peters makes some wonderful artisan Champagne from estate vines in one of the world’s great Chardonnay terrors, Le Mesnil an area that is only surpassed by Montrachet in Burgundy for having a bigger name when it comes to legendary Chardonnay. Le Mesnil is home to Krug and Salon, and while Krug is dense and exotic, Salon is powerful and serve, this leaves a lot of great middle ground, this is filled nicely by Rodolphe at Pierre Peters, his bubbles are luxurious and elegant, extremely well crafted and remarkable values in handmade Champagne. Pierre Peters, a small family Champagne house, a Terry Theise Selection, makes grower producer terroir driven Champagnes that show class, complexity and are easily understood, these are not in the same vein as Selosse, Cedric Bouchard, Jerome Prevost or Francois Boulard, which are unique single vineyard Champagnes, or the next generation (as I call them) style Champers, but Pierre Peters makes high end bubbles that are distinct and lavish. The Peters vintage Champagnes are excellent and very age worthy, it is better to cellar them, but the Reserve non-vintage is stunning and is fantastic young, it is on my list for a New Year’s Eve pick, especially this glorious new batch, which is now on the shelves. the Grand Cru “Cuvee de Reserve” is 100% Chardonnay and is lavishly rich and decedent with refined mousse, toasty birch, hazelnut, apple and pear fruits, mineral, saline, white flowers, white fig, melon, wet stones and a dreamy texture which is vivid, creamy, but lively and dry on the palate with nice lemony tension, lush mouth feel and lengthy finish. While I usually opt for extreme Extra Brut these days, this beauty is the exception, and I find it rewarding, pleasing and hedonistic, a superb Champagne that does not disappoint, and will make for a lovely celebration as the clock ticks down to the New Year, drink now and over the next 5 to 10 years.
($65 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
avail at www.sfwtc.com