2012 Weingut von Winning, Pinot Noir II, Diedesheim, Pfalz Germany.
Von Winning is making some great wines and it was amazing tasting through their lineup, especially the Grosses Gewachs Rieslings, which are like no other I’ve ever encountered, these are more similar to Batard-Montrachet than what you’d think of as classic Riesling, these are remarkable, exotic and wildly expensive wines that if you try (it) will instantly understand why. Andreas Hutwohl was a patient and gracious host, providing insight and detail behind the von Winning wines at the recent Terry Theise tasting in San Francisco, and it was the first time I got to sample their elusive Pinot Noir (Spatburgunder) and wow, they are spot on with this varietal too. The gorgeous 2012 von Winning Pinot Noir II is their entry level Pinot, and while at over $50 on the shelf when it is released later this fall, it is with out question worth every penny when you compare to California or Burgundy Pinot Noir in this price class, in fact it is a near perfect marriage of new world with old world in style with big and lush fruit and elegant balance coming through in the tannins and acidity. The von Winning Pinot was aged in large French cask, not all new barrique as the allow more subtlety and grace to shine and while lavish and rich on the palate, this is a wine of finesse and has amazing length. The nose starts with a heady perfume of violets, roses and mocha notes along with loads of red fruits, toffee and spice leading to a palate that has plum, red raspberry, black cherry and cola bean notes plus racy cassis, red spice and a smoky/toasty creamy texture. Hints of mineral and saline also play roles in this young and juicy Pinot, I’d say you’d want to short term cellar this, drink from 2016-2022, this is very impressive stuff, be sure to keep an eye out for this, it should be available in very limited supply starting in the fall of 2014.
($52 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive
