1995 Fratelli Brovia, Barolo “Villero” DOCG, Falletto, Piedmonte, Italy.
A glorious treat, the chance to taste a fine mature Barolo, and Brovia especially was a much appreciated experience, I adore old Nebbiolo. The Villero sits in the mddle of the Barolo zone in Castiglione Falletto and is a historic Cru, it seems to be a place where there is high natural acidity, but heavenly textural richness in it’s Nebbiolo grapes, and certainly this 1995 Brovia Villero is silky lush and still full of life making it a wonderful example with all the classic markers and terroir. The 1995 vintage was a good solid year, but not to the level of greatness maybe of 1996 or 1997, though it has aged well and these are Barolo that should be drunk in the near term in my opinion, they offer lots of character, surprising depth and elegance, very Burgundy like in mouth feel and complexity. This was the case with the Brovia Villero, it started with faded roses and fallen leaves, spiced tea, truffle and a bit of stewed plum, but perked up in the glass with vivid cherry, raspberry and strawberry fruit, refined tannins giving firm control on the palate, along with layers of black licorice, porcini, lavender, loam and stones. The tar and minty notes fold into the red currant fruit in harmony and the medium body feels smooth and there is stylish length, finishing with a flurry of elements on the aftertaste with a play of savory notes, cedar, mineral tones and fruit, plus a hint of wild herbs. (Tasted on May 18, 2014, it should be noted too that the bottle I sampled had almost of full day of air and might have lost a bit of nose and or vigor.) This is near it’s best and I would think there is another 3 to 5 years of pleasure to be had, maybe a little longer if cellared well, drink 2014-2018.
($89-185 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
