2006 Weingut Ansgar Clusserath, Riesling “Trittenheimer Apotheke” Kabinett, Mosel Germany.
The Trittenheimer Apotheke Cru is across the middle Mosel from Trittenheim near Bernkastel and has severe slopes up to about 70% making it very steep, it sits on weathered slate and clay, which holds water to help hydration over the long growing season. This is a very unique site with about 30-60 year old vines mostly, there is also great exposure here and it is unbelievably beautiful in pictures, as I’m sure it is in person. The Weingut Ansgar Clusserath is a small family concern, with name sake Ansgar and daughter Eva, though Herr Clusserath has handed the reins to young Frau Clusserath, who is embracing both the past and future, making more natural style wines, as a few contemporaries are doing like Matthias Knebel and Eva Fricke, Eva prefers all native fermentations, using 50 year old casks and employs a low sulphur regiment. Eva Clusserath-Wittmann (she is married to Philipp Wittmann, another new generation winemaker of some fame, at his family’s Weingut Wittmann in the Rheinhessen.) is a star in the making and her wines are rich in flavor, detail and oozing terroir, this is certainly a label to follow in coming years. So, it was interesting to taste the 2006 vintage, giving insight on both her evolving style and see how her wines progress with a bit of age, well, there is no doubt she has found her niche, this is gorgeous Riesling with fruit, mineral, earth and texture, this compelling white shows apricot, apple and peach fruits with hints of fig, tangerine, clove and tropical essence along with wet stones, flinty spice, salty brine and a touch of honey. The core of acidity and the hint of sweetness really drive this wine, it is starting to develop secondary character and depth and should gain still with another few years in bottle, drink now through 2022. This is a lovely almost mature Riesling that deserves attention, be sure to check out this winery and especially this Trittenheimer Apotheke, it speaks of place and passion, very classy stuff indeed.
($30 Est.) 92+ Points, grapelive
avail at www.sfwtc.com ($27.95)