2009 Fratelli Brovia, Barolo DOCG “Rocche dei Brovia” Piedmonte, Italy.
A beautifully detailed, subtle and textured wine, the 2009 Brovia Rocche is a stunning and elegant Barolo with character, class and structure. While 2004, 2006 and maybe the 2008 have more sheer tannin and grip, the 2009 has grace, intrigue and seductive quality, this is a fine and captivating Barolo, especially in the shorter term, this is not a blockbuster or a wine to be lost in the cellar for a decade, this is a Nebbiolo that might be called, though Cliche, Burgundy like and haunting, and a wine to be enjoyed in it’s first decade of release, though it should prove interesting well into the second decade. Brovia is a wonderful and what I’d call an honest, transparent producer of suburb Langhe wines from Arneis to Barolo, from Dolcetto to Barbera, everything is classy and well worth taking the extra mile to find. The 2009 Brovia Barolo Rocche die Brovia is perfumed with rose petals, lavender, peppery spice and delicate mineral before opening to a palate of glorious and classic flavors with layers of tangy plum, morello cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry red fruits, tar, sweet herbs, iodine, savory salted black licorice, cedar and hints of gamey truffle, clove and fig paste. A true beauty, drink from 2014 to 2022.
($90 Est.) 94+ Points, grapelive