Grapelive Wine of the Week
By Kerry Winslow
***
2009 Lapierre Morgon Cru Beaujolais, France. (Natural Cuvee, Kermit Lynch)
Marcel Lapierre passed away recently and the world marked his passing with many a praise and story about his life and how his remarkable wines touched so many people. Without question he helped the world see the region of Beaujolais as a very serious wine region and his art and passion lives on in his family and his wines. As a more recent devotee and admirer I can only add that from what I’m had in the last three or four vintages from Lapierre, nothing has been short of excellent and I continue to buy them for myself, and because of Lapierre and Foillard I’ve become a Morgon fanatic. Like the rest of the world I’ve waited for this release with great expectations, as I’m sure you’ve heard, the 2009 vintage has been hailed as the year of Cru Beaujolais, maybe even more so than Bordeaux! Well, okay, more collectors will sink obscene amounts of money into ’09 Bordeaux than Beaujolais, but us wine drinkers will be stocking up on Morgon, Brouilly and other Beaujolais, that much is true! Real taste versus the hype, the verdict is in, and yup it is the real deal, 2009 Cru Beaujolais are rocking good and amazingly exotic with stunning fruit and are pure enjoyment. This Lapierre Morgon, which was a special cuvee with extra barrel age and without extra sulfur is wildly ripe and expressive with violets, wild flowers, blueberry, plum and cassis that explode on the palate. Lingering spice, strawberry and a hint of dried hay balance the fruit and add to the interest, the long finish is both sweet and savory with cherry, green pepper and brown sugar all subtlety coming through behind the vibrant dark fruits. Grab this wine, enjoy it young and be glad you did.
($26 Est.) 94 Points, Grapelive
***