Wine of the Week
By Kerry Winslow
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2002 Dom Perignon “Andy Warhol Edition” Brut Champagne, Epernay (Moet et Chandon)
This is a sublime vintage and wonderful Dom, there is nothing not to love here, except that it is still very young and tight, though that is no fault what so ever. If you wanted to get some Dom to lay down, this is your wine, priced right and available, time to do it, as by next year it should prove scarce and pricy! The colorful Andy Warhol label edition means nothing to the Champagne fan, but may have some collector interest at some point. The nose is still shy, but the vigor and bracing power show up on the palate with edgy acid and citrus notes, but given air it rounds out and shows apple, white peach, fig, hazelnut and brioche. There is a tiny hint of chalk and mineral that adds complexity too. Words are not enough, you should at east try this Champagne, it would set the bar for your own palate! Dom Perignon went through a period of not being fashionable, but from my latest experience and tastings, it is again reaching the highest levels of quality, especially the Enoteque versions, I am still smitten with the fantastic 1993 Dom Perignon Enoteque, it has to be one of the best Dom’s I’ve tried, right up there with the 1990!
Side note: I pour a bit into a full size wine glass and swirled, and a wonderful toasty, smoke side came alive in the Dom Perignon, and the Champagne gained a white Burgundy quality, I think it would make a fine still wine! This vintage Dom does need some cellar time, I only wish I could afford to collect some.
($149.95-165 Est.) 96 Points, grapelive
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Available at www.sfwtc.com