2022 Francois Chidaine, Montlouis Sur Loire, Les Choisilles, Loire Valley, France.
The Chenin revival might be a bit over blown in California, but France’s versions continue to get better and stylish, with producers like Chidaine putting out lovely stuff like this Les Choisilles Montlouis Sur Loire which is the definition of varietal purity and terroir driven Chenin in the glass. Layered and forward on the palate this expressive lightly golden, delicately floral 2022 has a ripe array of honeyed peach, bruised apple and lemony citrus fruits, along with subtle yeasty lees notes, wet stone, a hint of tropical essences, bitter almond and snappy herbs.The latest Chidaine Chenins are again wonderfully open, opulent and vibrant expressions of place and varietal, from the moderate 2022 vintage these wines show a richness without losing their vibrancy and vitality, especially charming and compelling is this Les Choisilles Montlouis sur Loire, though I do love the Clos du Breuil. Chidaine, all certified biodynamic, is a follower of Nicolas Joly, but with a more hedonistic style, his wines always seem to have a bit more juicy raciness and body, as seen here clearly. The Les Choisilles, which has some flinty soils, is vibrant, but powerful too, adding to its rewarding nature and fitting of the Chidaine style, it is a wine that is pleasing and wonderful with food, at its best with poultry and pork dishes, as well as flavorful fish dishes or artisan farm soft cheeses.
The Domaine Francois Chidaine is a second generation estate located in Montlouis, not far from the more famous Vouvray appellation in France’s Loire Valley region and has become the best known and consistent maker of fine dry Chenin Blanc wines in the area. The Montlouis AOC, as the winery notes, is an appellation of 400 hectares located directly across the river from Vouvray, and was in fact, until it was granted AOC status in 1937, was actually labeled as Vouvray. The soils in both places are quite similar with a mix of sandy clay on a base of tuffeau. There’s a slightly higher percentage of sand and pebbles in the Montlouis soils that may make the wines a bit leaner than those of Vouvray. Much like all the cru style Chidaine bottlings, there’s always a transmission of site, and the Chenin is grown on a combination of mainly Silex and clay soils, but the Les Choisilles is from old vines in the vineyards of Les Epinais, La Taille aux Loups and Clos au Renard, and the wine is named after a type of black flint called choisille that is found here. The grapes were hand harvested and native yeast fermented and then, as per the norm here, raised in a combination of stainless vats and neutral (used) demi-muid French oak cask, it’s a Sec or Dry style that is given to gracefully layers and subtle aromatics. I’ve long been a fan of Chidaine’s offerings, which are still incredibly reasonable for the quality, and I highly recommend vintages like this one.
($36 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive