2015 Domaine Charlopin-Tissier, Pernand-Verglesses 1er Cru “Sous Fretille” White Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, France.
This 2015 Charlopin-Tissier Pernand-Verglesses, golden hued in the glass is full of powerful concentration, opulently rich on the palate and unmistakable as a great White Burgundy with an underlying mineral, chalky core, filled out by golden apple, Asian pear, golden fig, lemon curd, clove spice, hazelnut brioche, hints of kiwi, sea shore and crème brûlée. This is definitely a riper and vinous style, far removed from Chablis, but there’s still good acidity and an elegance that is wonderfully compelling, much the same way as its cousins in the Grand Crus have. In fact the Sous Fretille lieux-dieu which sits with the Pernand-Vergelesses village below and the Corton hill to the left, on clay and limestone slopes, is the larger of three vineyards custered around the village of Pernand-Vergelesses and was granted Premier Cru status in 2000. The Cru status, though only applies to white wines grown here, and made predominantly from Chardonnay, as seen here. This six hectare (15 acre) site curves around the outside of the famous Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, making this wine a cult favorite and adds to the pedigree, again, seriously on display here with this Charlopin-Tissier version. This was a dense and full bodied vintage, captured with a pure sense of what the year and place marked the grapes with, it was barrel fermented and saw almost exclusively seasoned or nicely used French oak, where it was extended lees aged but with a minimum amount of batonage, as the wine didn’t need added textural depth!
I had never seen this Domaine Charlopin-Tissier label before and not known of its unique cult status with those in the Burgundy enthusiast scene, so I was completely blown away by this bottle, which my friend and colleague, winemaker and ex Michelin starred wine director Aaron Watty shared with a small group. I learned later that, the estate was founded in 2013 by Yann Charlopin and his wife Justine Tissier, and understand now why Domaine Charlopin-Tissier is one of the most exciting young domaines in Burgundy! This is a small, organically farmed estate rooted in Gevrey-Chambertin, which is credited with producing wines of striking purity, precision, and terroir expression, all of which can’t be denied when tasting the wine, especially this Sous Fretille Pernand-Verglesses. Domaine Charlopin-Tissier in 2013, started building their range around the Marsannay vineyards, which was a lot more affordable for a new project, most of vines were actually owned byf his wife, Justine’s family and while It was a modest beginning, this has become a very serious and highly coveted label. It should be noted that Yann Charlopin grew up watching his father Philippe Charlopin make wine, and who himself was a student of the legendary Henri Jayer. When he went out on his own, Yann got advice from another Burgundy’s great, Jean-Marie Fourrier, whose influence has shaped this young vigneron. The style at Chalopin-Tissier is all about transparency and terroir, with all farming being organic, hand-harvesting and wines that are matured without a heavy oak presence. A big thank you to Aaron for introducing me to this wonderful domaine, and I cannot wait to see how their Rouge offering taste!
($160+ Est.) 95 Points, grapelive