n.v. Denis Salomon, Rosé de Meunier, Brut Champagne, Vallée de la Marne, France.
Specializing in outstanding hand-crafted 100% Meunier cuvée Champagne offerings, like this gorgeously distinctive Rosé de Meunier Brut, the Denis Salomon Maison is fast becoming a new go to bubbly and this one with its stylish delicacy of aromas and medium bodied palate, creamy mousse and elegant mineral tones is a favorite. Beautifully salmon/copper colored in the glass, this Champagne shines in mouth with rich opulence, giving sour cherry, lemon/orange citrus, wild strawberry and apple skin, along with leesy notes, wet chalky stone, a touch of rosewater and clove. The wines see some wood aging, adding depth and that luxurious feel, not unlike another favorite Vilmart, though truly all about the Meunier grape here. The Champagne Denis Salomon estate, as noted in my prior reviews, has 4.9 ha under vine, which are separated into 22 plots across 6 imported villages, including Vandières, Damery, Verneuil, Venteuil, Boursault and Mareuil-le-Port, with (the vines) ranging in age from 30 to 60 years, adding to the complexity in the wines. 100% Meunier Champagnes, once very obscure, have seen a huge rise in popularity in recent times, with versions like this delivering depth of fruit, richness and snappy crunchiness. This low dosage Brut bottling, is ripe, but finessed, has a fine elegant mousse that is a touch electric and creamy at the dame time, making for a wine of balance and sexy tension.
The Champagne Denis Salomon house has its roots going back to 1875 when Albert Salomon, originally from the Savoie alpine region of France, settled in the Marne Valley in the Champagne region and started integrating into the local wine growing culture. Most notably to us modern drinkers of Champagne, Nicolas Salomon, the 5th generation in the family, has run the estate since 2004 and has overseen the biggest rise in critical attention and quality here, with his focus on sustainable grapes, traditional vinification and mature vines. Nicolas is passionate in his approach to winemaking, noting that he is committed to vinifying each plot separately, pressing whole bunches in a traditional Coquard basket press and utilizing small stainless-steel tanks along with old French oak for the fermentation and élevage of his wines. Since 2012 he has blocked malolactic fermentation producing fresh and structured or chiseled Champagnes, as this Brut Rosé de Meunier shows the house style brilliantly. Having these wines only a few times, I look forward to trying more of the rare vintage bottlings here, as well as keep on drinking this 100% Rosé de Meunier at Denis Salomon, and I recommend these to Champagne enthusiasts, and while drinking beautifully on their own, they in my opinion are even better with food, it went nicely indeed with a caviar bliny as well as fresh briny oysters. I again, really enjoyed the couple of chances I’ve had with these interesting all Meunier Champagnes from the Vallée de la Marne, and hope to see them more widely available.
($62 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive