2010 Bodega R.Lopez de Heredia, Rioja, Vina Tondonia Reserva, Haro, Rioja, Spain.
Like most of the last joyous experiences with Lopez de Heredia, the Vina Tondonia Reserva starts with its classic fabulous mature flavors of a perfectly aged wine with the unfolding of dried berries, floral tones, sweet toasty oak and delicate spices before the a sharper picture emerges with black raspberry, cherry, currant and plum fruits along with touches of vanilla, candied orange peel, coconut, tobacco leaf, cedar and subtle anise notes fill out on the velvety full bodied palate. This is perfect in a way only a wine like this can be, its old school in the best way possible, reminding me that these wines have a special place in not only my heart, but the collective hearts of the greater wine world. The 2010, a vintage that excelled across the main regions of Europe, especially in Bordeaux, was also fantastic, in my opinion in Rioja, where most everything I tried was excellent and this wine with more than 15 years of age is really hitting its stride, and can go another decade with ease. It’s amazing that Lopez de Heredia isn’t mentioned in the same vein as Chateau Lafite-Rothschild or other elite names, as it certainly deserves, but then again I am happy it is more of an insiders wine, because I can still afford it on occasions! As I did with friends with a rustic home cooked meal, including an open fire roasted steak, where this 2010 really shined, again thanks to my Sardinian friend and winemaker Giuseppi Cossu for the amazing meal. Sharing a bottle of Lopez de Heredia is one of the great pleasures in wine professional life no question and this one was even more elevated than expected.
In 1877 the design and construction of the winery, which is today known as the López de Heredia bodega began, becoming the oldest in Haro, the capital and heart of the Rioja region. Lopez de Heredia’s Vina Tondonia Reserva is always a special treat and this 2010 was no exception, and drinking wonderfully right now with supple texture and incredible length, its mature layers reward the palate with its graceful fruit and seamless complexity. Made from about 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho (Garnacha), along with small amounts of Graciano and Mazuelo all from Lopez de Heredia’s own prime vineyards. These Vina Tondonia’s see almost 6 years of barrel aging with two rankings per year and gentle egg whites fining for clarification with a special selection of American oak being used in the under ground and cool cellars. One of the Rioja regions visionaries, Don Rafael López de Heredia y Landeta planted the Viña Tondonia between 1913 and 1914, believing Rioja Alta was the best area for quality grapes at the time and very clearly this was proven out and Vina Tondonia has become one of Spain’s most famous vineyards. Vina Tondonia, set near the Ebro River, has a continental warm climate, but with cooling influences from the higher elevation which allows sublime grape ripening and fantastic aging potential, as these Lopez de Heredia wines show. The soil here is alluvial clay with a high proportion of limestone, again proving perfect elements for great wines and terroir character. I highly recommend all of these Lopez de Heredia offerings, from their whites and rosés to their regular Rioja reds and the ultra rewarding Reservas, like this one!
($60-90 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive