2025 Zephyr, Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand.
It was great to catch up with Ben Glover again recently and taste through his Zephyr wines, with his latest 2025 Riesling being my favorite, with its aromatics, freshness and bone dry tension appealing to this Riesling enthusiast. Coming from Marlborough, on the north part of New Zealand’s South Island, set on silty soils and with cold ocean influences, this all organic Riesling gives off citrus blossoms, subtle tropical essences and zest tart flavors with key lime, tangerine, green apple and unripe apricot on the zingy lighter framed palate. Winemaker, Ben Glover says his Riesling has in his words: “crisp, sultry, succulent, verve, gin and tonic acidity and a stunning refreshing vibrancy” that I agree with and excited me enough to go back many times to re-visit it at a importer tasting not too long ago. Cold settled then fermented and aged on the lees with stainless steel, this bright, attractive and focused single vineyard Riesling is all about purity, clarity and vitality. I would never mind being a glass of this stuff, especially with grilled shrimps and or raw oysters on the half shell.
I learned that, back in 1985, the Glover family, one of the pioneers in Marlborough, converted their farm in Dillons Point to vineyard land, inspired by the very few early efforts in the region that eventually led to the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc boom of the early 2000s. Being a third generation farming family, as noted by the winery, meant that there was a natural ability to see the potential in the land for grape vines and ultimately the production of world-class wine, which their grapes went into for the better part of twenty years. In 2007 Owen and Wendy Glover’s passion for growing grapes finally overflowed into the desire to release their own brand, which they called Zephyr, inspired by the prevailing wind that cools their vineyards. A bit later their son Ben took over the winemaking and things have got even better and after tasting with Ben over the last few vintages I have been charmed by his efforts here, and while the Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot are popular, I especially like this valued priced and excellent Kiwi Riesling! While the New Zealand category is impacted and there’s a ton of Sauvignon Blanc, I highly recommend this authentic small producer that makes distinctive offerings.
($18 Est.) 90 Points, grapelive