2013 G.D. Vajra, Riesling, Langhe DOC, Piedmonte, Italy.
Giuseppe Vajra’s Barolo grown Riesling is fast becoming a cult wine, it certainly is one of Italy’s great white wines to emerge in the last few years and is by far the best white from Piedmonte, yes in my humble opinion, but this is amazing wine of that there is no question. The special German clone vines grown high up on a cool hillside on a mix of rocky soils make for a dry and vigorous Riesling that has an experience that transcends time and place, there are taste elements found here that remind me of not only of German trockens of the Pfalz, but of Austria and even Eden Valley of Australia, though there is an Italian sense that shines through at it’s core. The latest release, the 2013 is vivid and bright with crisp intensity and elegant charm, it shows amazing grace for a wine with so much built up energy, there is is wonderful winemaking and talented hands crafting this Riesling and this edition shows balance and vitality not usually seen outside of Germany, this rare beauty has the wow factor. The Vajra Riesling starts with citrus and ocean brine on the nose with a delicate pale color with just a hint of pigment that has a touch of greenish/gold and a whiff of rose petal and kiwi before a vibrant palate of tangy lime, minty herb, peach flesh, a touch of tropical fruit maybe mango, green apple, tangerine and whisper of tart white cherry along with lip smacking acidity, chalk dust, river stones and steely mineral tones. The acidity keeps things dynamic and electric in the mouth, but with air the wine fills out and highlights it’s refinement and gives some density and texture. There is a sense of power, but at 13% alcohol it never feels heavy or hot, though it is exceptionally dry, saline rich, lemony and mouthwatering, this Vajra Riesling is a special wine, it seems utterly out of place and expensive on one hand, but when judged against what you get in the glass it is worth every penny and this wine is a treasure for Riesling lovers and compares well against it’s German Grosses Gewachs rivals, I’d put it close to von Buhl and some of von Winning’s, not too far off some of the Donnhoff drys, this is as geeky as it gets and a fantastic effort, drink from 2015 to 2022! Oh, and I almost forgot, don’t miss Giuseppe’s fine Barbera and Nebbiolo wines, especially his up coming 2011 Barolo offerings, they are stellar!
($48 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
