2013 Viticoltori De Conciliis, Donnaluna, Fiano Paestum IGP, Campania, Italy.
The Donnaluna Fiano by De Conciliis is a beautiful and mineral driven white from Italy’s underrated South, it shows wonderful life, vitality and has a nice play of crisp fruit, savory spice and texture. Interestingly, De Conciliis uses whole cluster and stem inclusion for the start of fermentation, temp control allows cool ferments and after reaching about 2-3% the skins and stems are removed after a gentle press, then the wine is allowed to go through full malo and the Fiano stays on the lees 12 months with only a light fining, no filtering with very low sulphur, all is stainless. This is an artful process and preserves fresh detail and gives layers of character, this Fiano is serious stuff and it is certainly an admirable effort from this superb certified organic winery, their Falanghina and Aglianico wines are also brilliant and should be sought after too. The 2013 Fiano starts with exotic notes of floral and mineral, along with hints of flint, sea breeze and chamomile leading to a vibrant palate of pear, lemon/lime, dried apricot, wet stones, peach pit and wild herbs. There is some body as the wine warms and lingering honey, verbena and a savory/chalky note, but chilled nicely there is a pure steely briskness that keeps this wine in firm control, this is a great sea food white, perfect for trout too, drink it over the next 12 to 18 months, though I expect it to age well for 3 to 5 years.
($24 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
