2023 Quinta da Muradella, Candea Blanco, Monterrei D.O., Galicia, Spain.
The wonderfully expressive and vivid Candea by Quinta da Muradella in the Monterrei D.O. region of Spain is bright yellowish/gold in the glass and shows off a rich non Malo palate of zesty lemon preserves, tangerine, white peach, quince and crisp apple fruits, along with snappy herbs, wet stone, verbena and a touch of orange oil. There’s a nice inner energy here and steely mineral charm here, but some serious dimension, depth and length with a sur lie or leesy event that is persistent throughout here on this brilliant white. Galicia may be better known for Rías Baixas, Ribeiro, and the Ribeira Sacra, but its tiny Monterrei region, hugging the Portuguese border and with a history that pre-dates Roman times, offers up some very special wines, such as this. Crafted from native varietals, Doña Blanca, Verdelho and Treixadura, the tank raised Candea shows a terroir driven transparency and Atlantic induced flavors and salinity, making it great with sea foods and or creamy soft cheeses. Winemaker José Luis Mateo Gargia, one of the regions top aces, started Quinta da Muradella in 1990 and his wines have now reached cult status for those in the know, and are incredible values too!
José Luis Mateo Garcia’s Quinta da Muradella in Spain’s Galicia region, right on the Portuguese border is well established and one of the best labels to look for, especially for the stylish and impactful white, such as this Candea bottling. The Candea, which is a very unique blend of Doña Blanca, Verdello and Treixadura, a grape that can transmit terroir and give rich almost white Burgundy like character, comes from organic and hand tended vineyards around the village of Tamagos, set on mostly clay based soils, with some granite and sand. The vines sit up on average at close to 370 meters at elevation, which allows for good air flow and cooling influences from the Atlantic Ocean. The grape clusters are all pressed and co-fermented together at harvest here and exclusively in cool temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The winery says the juice stays on its fine lees for over a year before bottling and there is no malolactic fermentation, giving vitality here and a rich textural mouth feel, as seen in this 2023 vintage. The passion behind thee Quinta da Muradella wines is obvious and Garcia, a noted perfectionist is name most with have never heard of, but these are wines that enthusiasts should really get to know as soon as possible, I had long chased a bottle, so I’m thrilled to have got this one and spend a couple of evenings with it. Now, I am exited to try the red wine too, but I certainly recommend this Candea, which is a bit easier to find.
($25 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive