2022 Agricolavinica – Le Colline di Ripa, Sauvignon del Molise DOC “Lame del Sorbo” Molise, Italy.
The very intriguing and soulful Agricolavinica Lame del Sorbo Sauvignon Blanc has loads of high elevation character steely and a fine saline note that pull together the palate with lemon/lime, green melon, gooseberry and papaya fruits, along with a burst of resiny herbs, white blossoms, wet stones and oyster shell accents. There’s a hint of raw funkiness at first but everything turns poised and pleasing on the second sip, as many Italian Sauvignon Blancs do, though I found this one to be pretty unique, serious and attractive with its straw/gold hue and just the right amount of secondary evolution happening, making it standout a bit more and I can it would be even better with food. Coming from the lesser traveled and remote Molise region, near the Adriatic Sea on Italy’s eastern coast this Sauvignon del Molise comes from organic vines in the “Lame del Sorbo” vineyard, which are situated up at 650 meters above the see level, giving plenty of fresh details and for the price, much more interesting than the average New Zealand examples. I already wrote about the skin macerated Trebbiano here at Agricolavinica – Le Colline di Ripa previously, but this wine also deserves mention too, this is a winery that has gained some critical acclaim in recent years, so it was really good to discover their wines, as noted before, at the recent Slow Wine tour stop in San Francisco. For the Sauvignon Blanc, the grapes are all sustainably and certified organically grown and the wine made with very natural means with lots of hard work in the vineyards being the most important part. The winery believes they might have just the ideal terroir for Sauvignon Blanc and employ a long fermentation, this is due to the absence of temperature control in the cellar, without any added yeast, and then raise it exclusively in stainless steel tank sur lie for 12 months.
I was able to meet and taste with Dott. Rodolfo Gianserra of Agricolavinica, who is a part of Slow Wine and Raw Wine, who makes a lovely set of wines from the Molise area, including this Sauvignon (Blanc), a unique skin macerated Trebbiano Alter Terre, which I already wrote up, along with his dark fruited Tintilia red. Just just inland from the Adriatic sea on Italy’s eastern coast, and mainly known for their rare mountain olive oil, Agricolavinica has an untamed and organic farm that includes he local cannellino beans, corn and furthermore chickpeas, lentils, tomatoes, seasonal vegetables and apples, as well as grapes, which they make natural wines. Agricolavinica, as mentioned in my prior review, which was established in 2007, as the winery notes, with the aim of developing a full project for organic farming and eco-sustainable development of a territory whereas long time abandoned lands and vineyards with ancient documented histories and were suitable to produce excellent vegetables, fruit and wine. Gianserra Rodolfo says the vineyards are all located at high altitude hills between 550 and 750 meters above the see level and there is no irrigation besides the natural rain and snow that falls during the winter months and the climate provides a high temperature excursion during the warm seasons and lovely cool breeze, which helps retain a natural acidity. The grass is also kept in the vineyards to maintain nutrients while nature with its vast biodiversity provides, what Rodolfo calls, the perfect background for the grapes to grow and mature. This is further enhanced, he continues, by the varied composition of the soils: limestone, flint stones, clay, marne, sand and calcareous formed over 50 million years ago along the Appennini mountains, that all contribute to distinct terroir character in the wines, as seen here. These Agricolavinica wines are not going to be easy to find in the States, but worth it if you happen across them.
($25 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive