2020 Terre Stregate, Aglianico “Manent” Sannio DOP, Campania, Italy.
I found Terre Stregate at the Tre Bicchieri tasting in San Francisco, it’s a winery from Campania that I hadn’t seen before and I really enjoyed their elegant example of Aglianico del Sannio, which caressed the palate with loads of supple richness of red berry fruit, wild dusty spices, minty herbs, delicate earthiness and licorice notes. Not overly complicated or build for aging, this is drinking lovely right now and much less rustic or tannic than old school version, which is not a fault and it will be a good start point for exploring wines from this region and the Aglianico grape. The plum, cherry and red currant fruits almost become creamy in the mouth, but there’s more complexity than meets the eye and the wine is much better with food, even a bit of hard sheep cheese will bring out this wine’s personality. The Campania region, once almost forgotten, has regained its Roman era fame and is really turning out some remarkable wines, and some are absolutely lovely values as this Terre Stregate Aglianico proves, and while not always easy to find, they merit some chasing down.
The Terre Stregate, which means “Land of the Bewitched”, was originally established back in 1898, but was abandoned as a winery for the better part of 200 years before being restored in 2004 and is now making waves under the Iacobucci family and their winemaker Nicola Trabucco. Located in the Sannitic Hills, Terre Srtegate has sloping vineyards in Matese that sit above the Telesina Valley and the Calore River in the remote Campania region in Italy’s southern reaches. Terre Stregate is mostly known for organic olive oils, but have been getting praise for their Aglianico, as seen here, and a fine Falanghina white, a Tre Bicchieri winner, which I hope to try soon. For their Manent Aglianico del Sannio, Terre Stregate does a care sorting of the grapes and de-stems the berries, fermenting in cool tanks before pressing the wine to small barriques for about 6 months of aging. This has produced fine, almost silky tannins and a very round mouth feel, while preserving a good amount of acidity. The clay and calcareous soils and organic farming in this very Mediterranean warm terroir helps retain freshness and balance, with the wines of Terre Stregate offering up a clean sense of place, as this dark garnet and lightly floral one delivers.
($20 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive