2013vonWinningSB5002013 Weingut von Winning, Sauvignon Blanc “500” Trocken, Pfalz, Germany.
The von Winning Sauvignon Blancs are game changers for this varietal, they are without a doubt some of the best Sauvignon Blanc offerings in the world, and in particular the von Winning Sauvignon Blanc 500 stands out and above, it will take you places you could not imagine from this grape and especially the place! People will talk about the great dry Sauvignons from Graves, like Haut-Brion or even the newer Cos d’Estournel white, both fine white Bordeaux, though silly expensive, but if you want to be completely blown away you must try this German Sauvignon Blanc, from the sandstone and limestone soils of the Pfalz. Done with “500” Halbstuck oak cask, hence the name, to give richness and smoky/sweet oak character, the 2013 is surprisingly finessed, elegant and detailed with intense acidity and mind-bending length, this is an absolute stunner, seriously one of the best Sauvignon Blancs I’ve ever tasted, period. It is a wine of a certain style, no question, it has lots of wood and it has massive power, texture and hedonistic pleasure or rock star personality, but even if you are a Dagueneau or true Sancerre fan you’ll be seduced and swept away in this wine’s charm and layers, and it casts aside almost any dry white Bordeaux offering. This wine may have been modeled after some of the best white Bordeaux wines, but it leaves them in the dust, and considering I’m not a huge Sauvignon Blanc fan and not given to like oaky ones especially, this wine certainly opened my eyes! The Weingut von Winning “500” comes from Paradiesgarten, and high density plantings, with winemaking more in style of Grand Cru white Burgundy, in fact, while you can be certain of varietal, you can relate this beautiful wine to a top Chablis such is the grace, drive and seriousness. The 2013 is less oaky/smoky than the 2011 or 2012 versions and the added delicacy truly is remarkable, it starts with wet stones, smoke, white flowers and a hint of quince before a palate of lemon/lime, white peach, grapefruit, melon and tropical notes along with a huge mouth feel, zesty acidity and mineral tones. The vanilla and creme brulee notes are more subtle than prior vintages, plus there is a chalky earthy element and the wine unfolds in modest fashion revealing layer after layer, this is utterly fantastic Sauvignon Blanc and the finish is gorgeous with hints of nectarine, gravel, lemon curd, custard/toffee and verbena. Look for even greater things in the future too, this young wine has plenty more to offer with time in the cellar, drink from 2017 to 2024, wow this is sexy stuff, and while I’m a total geek for Riesling, this is one of the wines of the year so far, no question.
($67 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive

By admin