2016 I. Brand & Family Winery, Chardonnay “52 Months in Barrel” Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands.
As a fan of Jura’s rustic, often funky in style with nutty, sherry like oxidative notes which are typical of wines aged sous voile, with flor, I was excited to try Ian Brand’s well aged California semi Non Ouillé version, which is still bursting with energy and has bright preserved lemon, apple, baked pear and dried pineapple fruits, as well as pecan, hazelnut, dried apricot, subtle wood, delicate florals, loamy stones, saline and clove spice accents. This held back 2016 vintage of long elevage Chardonnay has a nice textural development with a touch of a honeyed waxy element and mineral charm to go with the expressive Jura character and the depth and complexity with impressed the true enthusiasts of this quirky type of wine, which has the zesty zing of a crisp Fino or Manzanilla Dry Sherry, making it great with Alpine cheeses and or Tapas plates, including fried anchovies or grilled sardines. In recent years there’s been an underground movement in California to explore the Alpine French style of winemaking, with both the Jura and Savoie regions being inspirational, especially in Sommelier circles looking for something unique and food friendly, as most have lower alcohol and can be very distinctive in a lighter framed wine. Brand naturally fermented and aged the cool climate Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay on the lees without racking for over four years before bottling, with a few top ups and allowing for, what Ian calls, a light filmy (yeast) flor. Some of his evolved golden hued 2016 was held in bottle for another four years and is now about to be library released, along with a limited amount of 2010 and 2012, which are much farther along in the oxidative realm.
Jura tradition, according to Kermit Lynch, who imports some of the region’s finest examples, calls for aging whites Sous Voile, or under a fine “veil” of yeast, sometimes referred to as Flor, that grows over wine in barrel that has not been topped-off (Non Ouillé) to compensate for evaporation. The voile effectively slows the process of oxidation, while chemical reactions between these microorganisms and the wine below give rise to a highly distinctive and complex set of aromas. Continuing Lynch says these wines often hint at walnuts, beeswax, oriental spices, cheese rind, and brine, and I agree and that Sous Voile matured wines can come as a shock to what he calls “the unhabituated palate”, or newbie to Jura (wines) or a dry Sherry even. Their textural and aromatic singularity, Kermit explains naturally sets them in a category of their own at the table, (which) perhaps the best setting in which to gain an appreciation for such wines. Three of my own 100% Chardonnay favorites from the Jura are Jean-François Gavenat, who’s wines range from Burgundy style to the oxidative, the very authentic and old school Domaine Tissot and François Rousset-Martin, who’s Côtes du Jura Chardonnay is aged sous-voile in barrel for six years and the most like what you see here in Ian Brand’s flor influenced Non Ouillé bottling. Certainly this 52 Month in Barrel Chardonnay will not be a crowd pleaser (not for everyone), but it intellectually it’s quite intriguing, recommend to only the geekiest of wine lovers, otherwise enjoy the crisp Albarino and or the normal Escolle and or Fox Creek Chardonnays offerings here. There’s always a few new goodies at Ian Brand’s winery and it’s a good time to visit the winery tasting room in the Carmel Valley Village.
($36 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive