2023 B. Kosuge Wines, Gamay Noir, Carneros.
The expressive, magenta/ruby hued and medium/full bodied Kosuge Gamay Noir, from a tiny little vineyard parcel along the Carneros Highway on the Napa side, shows off juicy wild plum, cherry, strawberry and tangy red currant fruits on the palate, adding some pomegranate, mineral notes, crushed dark flowers, snappy herbs and pecan husk. Nice energy and whole cluster, carbonic like fruity elements add to the joyous quaffable nature here, it is a wine that enjoys a slight chill and is nicely crisp in detail. There is a forward side, but it stays dry feeling throughout and is a sold California version of this Beaujolais varietal, again proving Gamay is finding a happy home in the state. Kosuge has experimented with concrete, steel and used oak with his Gamay to best express the grape and I think he’s dialed it in well on this one.
Byron Kosuge says that as the 2023 season progressed it became clear that we would not be picking until well into September, quite different from most modern vintages and kind of a throwback vintage for him. Continuing he laughs that he even got Labor Day off! Then explaining that late harvests often lead to “cooler” tasting wines–lower alcohols, less ripe flavors, but the Gamay in 2023 was the opposite for him. For his Gamay is full throttle, richly and deeply flavored, benefiting from the longer hang time it seems, and I really enjoyed his efforts here, in fact I think it shines brighter than his Pinots, that I tried along side. Kosuge is a top notch winemaker, a long time consultant to some big name over the years, and his latest personal lineup is delicious and full of quality and value, especially this pure and tasty 2023 Carneros Gamay Noir. I have been following Byron’s efforts since his early Miura days in the late 1990s and his stunning SLH Pinots there, and I rate him and respect highly.
($28 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive