2014BrickHouseGamay2014 Brick House, Gamay Noir, Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley, Oregon.
Doug Tunnel’s latest Brick House wines, even from 2011 and 2013 vintages, both tough years for Oregon, have turned out amazing and are wonderful wines with the 2011 Evelyn’s Pinot and the exotic and perfumed Les Dijonnais Pinot being stand outs, impressive stuff from Tunnel, a pioneer in Willamette biodynamics and Burgundy fiend. It was great to taste through the lineup and revisit his 2012 Chardonnay, which is drinking fabulously and very Puligny like, but I think my favorite Brick House was the new 2014 Gamay Noir, it really stood out and reminds me of 2009 Cru Beaujolais, it has a Cote de Brouilly feel and wonderful structure to go with expressive and ripe dark fruits. This vintage of Brick House Gamay is only the second to get above 14%, and honestly it isn’t fruity or thin, it drinks with Pinot Noir class and detail, medium in weight and with some tannin. The pure Gamay Noir character shines through on the nose and palate with blackberry, a mix of floral and spice, cherry, strawberry and succulent currant as well as a hint of flinty stones, minty herb, walnut oil and plum/peach flesh. This savvy Gamay picks up some earth and dried cranberry with air adding some savory/bitter element to fold in nicely with the lush fruits making for a very complete experience, Brick House is a leader in quality Gamay, but this varietal is doing great in Oregon with many fine efforts available, I especially recommend searching out Salem Wine Co. by Sashi Moorman and Raj Parr, Bow & Arrow and Division Wine Company versions, these are all very cool wines, and while the Brick House will be the toughest to get, you should search it out, it is lovely juice, drink from 2016 to 2021.
($32 Est.) 92+ Points, grapelive

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