2019 Bergström, Pinot Noir “Cumberland Reserve” Willamette Valley.
Winemaker Josh Bergström, a Portland native and first generation of his Swedish family to make wine here in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, has crafted a beauty from a difficult, but old school Oregon vintage with his 2019 “Cumberland Reserve” Pinot Noir which shows off a very Burgundy like palate of brambly red fruits, spice, mineral tones and a touch of reductive funky earthiness. Named for the road where Josh’s family grew up in Portland, Oregon, the Cumberland Reserve represents, what he says, a blend of some of the finest barrels from five estate-farmed vineyards, all carefully combined to showcase Oregon Pinot Noir at its best. This Cumberland Reserve bottling, Bergström continues, is the epitome of the (his) Bergström style with organic grapes and biodynamic practices in the vineyard and cellar, capturing the expression of a unique vintage’s character combined with a marriage of spice, mineral, and fresh fruit flavors. All of these things flow together here in this elegant Pinot Noir with layers of black cherry, mulberry/blackberry, tart plum, cranberry and bright orange fruits, along with briar, graphite, espresso, cola, delicate dark florals and subtle cedary wood notes. Bergström studied at university in Beaune, France, where he received a postgraduate degree in Viticulture and Enology, which has helped influence his Burgundy like style. There, he also met his Burgundy-native wife, Caroline, so he’s made his experiences last both in wine and in family. I’ve long admired these Bergström wines and I suggest a visit to the winery if you are touring the Willamette Valley.
This Bergström “Cumberland Reserve” Pinot Noir, as I’ve mentioned before starting with the 2010 vintage, is a stunning example of why Oregon continues to intrigue the wine world with this grape, without question it is a wine that seduces the senses and fills the imagination. The earthiness and acidity are remarkably like top Premier Cru Burgundy wines and the intensity and vigor are a welcome surprise considering some the difficulties of the vintage, which saw a damp and cool late season. Bergström, as noted in prior reviews, uses grapes from five estate grown vineyards now as noted above, while before it came from some of his favorite sites to craft this wine and he has in the past sourced some grapes from the famed Shea Vineyard adding some pedigree, while the Estate vines were maturing, and even though Josh Bergstrom is already a star and his wines highly acclaimed and in demand, this label still doesn’t always get the attention it deserves and this wine is an incredible value for the quality on display. This wine reminded of why I have always been a fan of this winery and it got better and more complex over the course of an evening and paired with food, which on the night was a spicy grilled salmon pasta dish. Gentle hand crafted winemaking with indigenous yeasts and lengthy elevage help make these wines very distinctive. The deep garnet/ruby hue in the glass was also very inviting and while I had tucked this bottle away for close to three years, it was beautifully fresh and transparent, making me believe it has plenty of years ahead. Bergström, obviously known for exceptional Pinots, with stunning set of single vineyard wines, also does fabulous Chardonnay wines, as well as a Rosé and a Syrah, all of which I can highly recommend.
($55 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive