2015 Weingut Hirsch, Gruner Veltliner “Lamm” Kamptal, Austria.
Johannes Hirsch’s Lamm Gruner is truly majestic, it’s a dense, dry and powerful Gruner Veltliner that is comparable to a Grosses Gewachs, it’s a gorgeous single Grand Cru trocken white with tremendous class and pedigree, Lamm has to be considered one of the greatest vineyards in Austria, and this wine shows why! Hirsch, a winery imported by Terry Theise, has converted to all biodynamic and is Respekt certified, has been flying under the radar for many years making high quality wines, but not getting huge love or attention, this is about to change, as Johannes’ 2015 are set to blow up! This was a shocking revelation, these Hirsch Grunners and Rieslings were stunningly gorgeous, in fact they were some of the best examples I’ve ever tasted from Austria ever! Right up there with Knoll, Brundlmayer, Pichler and Hirtzberger, this is a winery to watch for, especially the single vineyard Gruner and Riesling, in particular the delicate and overwhelming pretty Hirsch Gaisberg Riesling and this mind blowing Hirsch Lamm Gruner Veltliner! This 2015 Lamm is richly and heavenly textured with silky finesse and vital energy, hiding it’s powerful engine under a velvet cushion with stunning concentration and the purest minerality with layers of lemon/lime, minty almond oil, white anise, white plum and crushed stones. The vineyard Lamm is set on a core of loess and mica with a sandy/brown rocky top soil which in years like 2015 give weight and depth, without sweetness or high alcohols, meaning you can have a masterpiece like this one is, this white is sexy thrilling as can be, it is certainly living up to it’s potential so far. This wine when open, transmits joyous harmony, pleasure throughout and subtly sprinkles in earth, spice and even a sweet/meatiness, it’s beautiful detailed and nervy or cat like in a smooth leopard kind of way, this is greatness in the glass, it was a seriously awesome experience to meet up with Johannes and taste his latest set of wines, and it took a few weeks to find the right words about just how good they really are, I still am not sure how to express it fully, drink this Gruner Cru over the next 5 to 10 years, and be sure to check out all of the Hirsch 2015’s!
($55 Est.) 94+ Points, grapelive