2012 Schlossgut Diel, Riesling Trocken, Dorsheimer Pittermannchen, Grosses Gewächs, Nahe Germany.
Just starting to allow a glimpse of maturity, the intense and remarkable Schlossgut Diel Pittermannchen GG ultra dry Riesling is an amazing wine in the same league as the best from Chablis, seriously this is a Riesling from Caroline Diel that rivals any of the Grand Cru bottlings from Dauvissat or Raveneau! Pure Riesling in varietal character and flavor, but this wine is anything but ordinary with muted stone/orchard fruit and a mouthful of liquid flint/shale with a zesty and steely core of acidity, extract and mineral force. The Cru Pittermännchen is Caroline’s slate soiled vineyard, her other Grosse Lage sites are led by quartzite (Burgberg) and gravel (the most famous Goldloch) and that shows in this wines flinty nature and it’s cerebral/profound intricate detailing, in particular this 2012 vintage which is loaded to the gills with energy and verve, but still shows off Caroline’s gifted touch and refinement, while still youthful it has everything coming good right now and it’s a gorgeous wine that deserves your full attention. Layered with a light golden hue this Pittermannchen GG starts with smoky stones, sea breezes (brine), white flowers and spices leading off before the palate fully unfolds into a powerful expression of great dry Riesling with a mix of taught and chalky citrus, stone fruits (white peach & apricot), fig, kumquat and quince, adding baking spices, white chamomile tea, rose oil, dried ginger, wet rock, lingering lime and nectarine. Air allows the texture to be appreciated and this wine turns of it’s inner grace and class, this wine has no flab or makes any apologies for it’s terroir driven character and slightly aloof personality, it’s a wine that doesn’t need any glitz to be understood for it’s regal almost austere presence. This wine is German precision to the max and should be that way, it’s a stunning example of Diel’s house style, nearly perfect in every way, those that have it will understand and be awestruck, absolutely 100% brilliant! In the cellar, Caroline uses native or Sponti ferments and she uses a combination of stuckfass, and larger German oak casks as well as cement tanks, everything is done to prevent any oxidation in the grapes and the sorting is extreme, only the best will do here. Diel has crafted some fabulous entry level wines in the 2016 vintage that you should be buying by the case, especially her Feinherb and Kabinett offering, but if you want a masterpiece look for her Grosses Gewachs with a few years of age like this one!
($69 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive

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