2023 Weingut Dönnhoff, Riesling Trocken, Roxheimer Höllenpfad, Nahe, Germany.
The Dönnhoff ’23 vintage, especially the dry Riesling collection, like this gorgeous, crisply dry, spicy, delicately aromatic and crystalline Roxheimer Höllenpfad, is simply stunning and while the GGs will get all the major attention there some outstanding values here, as this one also proves. Honestly, it was incredibly difficult to chose a favorite in the samples of these 2023s from Cornelius Dönnhoff, but if I had to pick I would definitely say that the Hermannshöhle GG and the Felsenberg GG were my tippy top wines, while this Roxheimer Höllenpfad Trocken for the money would be one that would stock up on. The pristine and steely medium bodied palate shows of lime blossom, green apple, tart apricot, quince and tangerine, along with quinine, chamomile, almond, herb, flinty mineral spice, wet rock, lemon oil and saline. Zingy and youthfully energetic this Riesling also has the signature purity and elegance you’d expect of a Dönnhoff and it is complex enough to thrill the most jaded of Riesling lovers. There’s more to come with patience I believe and while I might be hard pressed not to enjoy this one right away, there should be extra rewards for those who wait, it should get another few years in bottle to fully express itself.
As told to me many times by Dönnhoff’s importer and staff, the famous Höllenpfad, is a wildly steeply vineyard in a small side valley of the middle section of the Nahe River and the named Höllenpfad which translates to“Path to Hell” is fitting for those that have to hand tend this dangerous slope of Riesling vines. They say the name is an old one, likely referencing both the vineyard‘s steep slope as well as the unique color of the red sandstone here. They also mentioned that the surrounding landscape is bathed daily in the rich, warm light of the evening sun as it reflects off the hillside‘s distinctive red soil, which makes for a distinctive wine. The unique Roxheimer Höllenpfad parcels, a full VDP Erste Lage or Premier Cru site, sit on limestone with veins of red sandstone, which clearly influence the profile and it is understood that the grapes here are tiny and explosively vibrant and carry that intensity straight through to the wines. Cornelius employs a natural yeast fermentation and used a combination of stainless and used large oak for this Roxheimer Höllenpfad, with about 9 months of lees aging before bottling. I also have to mention that Dönnhoff’s basic Estate Trocken, review coming soon and the Kabinett Oberhäuser Leistenberg, already reviewed here, are wines to search out too, for exceptional value.
($35 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive