2012 Lapo Berti, Barolo DOCG, La Morra, Piedmonte, Italy.
Lapo Berti of La Morra is a small producer following the natural wine route, but with studied precision and finesse, their grapes come from two historic Cru parcels, one in Bricco Rocca and the other in Fossati, blended into a single cuvee, and it’s a beautiful and pure Nebbiolo with fine tannins, fresh acidity and lingering ripe flavors, it drinks well beyond it’s price point and is a stylish and savvy wine. Oregon legend John Paul of Cameron Winery of the Willamette Valley, who also makes a selection of Nebbiolo, imports this wine from Piedmonte that shows the best of these pedigreed vineyards believing it showcases the best of these terroirs, which are set on the classic marl soils in prime hillsides with perfect exposures with Fossati giving beauty, textural pleasure and robust structure, while the Bricco Rocca bringing a feeling of elegance, weightless charm and minerality. The 2012 vintage is classic in every way with earthy and radiant fruit, it’s not overly ripe or powerful, but stands out for it’s easy to drink personality, and this Lapo Berti Barolo delivers a stunning performance with layers of damson plum, dusty cherry and balsamic dipped strawberry as well as salted licorice, leather, porcini, wilted rose petals, chalky stones, minty herbs, faint gamey elements and light cedar notes, all seamlessly flowing together on the vigorous and vital palate. This Barolo is firm and dark, with a garnet/brick hue in the glass, it’s a gem and way over delivers, this Lapo Berti was fermented with native yeasts with absolutely no additions in the winemaking and with almost no sulfur, with gentile/cool maceration with the wine raised in neutral used barrels with a natural alcohol of 14%, only 1,000 bottles were produced, making it a rare treasure! This is a wine to search out, I got mine from Vinopolis Wine Shop in Portland, Oregon, who carry a great selection of Cameron’s wines and unique Italian offerings. Drink this pretty and seductive Barolo over the next 3 to 7 years, it is especially well suited to go with simple, robust and rustic cuisine, it is certainly an impressive and regal Nebbiolo and a label to follow.
($39 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive
