2018 Domaine Testut, Chablis Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre, White Burgundy, France.
The Montée de Tonnerre vineyard just might be my favorite Chablis site and I love the wines from here, it is a special place for this grape, set on classic limestone from the Kimmeridgien era, making for a mineral laced and stony terroir driven Chardonnay, with this 2018 Testut version being an absolutely thrilling example with a cool steely eyed personality and fabulous purity. Coming from a sélection massale of 60 year old vines on a southeast facing slope on the region’s chalky fossilized calcarious soils. The riveting Testut Montée de Tonnerre shows a confident subtly in the glass with an ultra pale greenish/gold hue and a crisply detailed medium bodied palate with lime, orchard stone fruits, quince and mouth watering saline infused wet rock, delicate clove spice, oyster shell and white flowers. There’s a nice tension and energy flowing through this Chardonnay and it gains elegant roundness and textural charm with air, it almost perfectly captures the year and place with a quiet depth and complexity, making for a very appealing Chablis that shines with cuisine, in particular this wine goes great with Sushi and or fresh crab dishes.

Cyril Testut has presided over the family estate since 1998, so he’s been doing it while now, and is a star that is finally getting the recognition he deserves, especially when you taste his Premier Crus, like this chiseled stony beauty.The Testut domaine was originally established by his father Philippe Testut back in 1967, and the Testut family has 13 hectares of prime vineyards, which date back hundreds of years and were previsouly owned by Cistercian agronomist monks, all are located in the historic heart of the Chablis and its limestone fan shell. It’s a serious selection of Grand Cru and Premier vines, mostly of which sit between the Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre, where this wine comes from, and the Grand Cru Blanchots, not too shabby. Those that like the domaines of Patrick Puize, Savary and Christophe will instantly recognize the style and quality in these Testut wines, and even those that are lucky enough to enjoy the greats, like Raveneau and Dauvissat will no doubt be impressed by Cyril’s excellent set of wines. This Montée de Tonnerre was fermented and aged in stainless steel tank in the Inox method with this wine seeing an elevage close to 18 months with lees. Testut is still a rarity in the States, but can be found with a little effort, which I highly recommend doing, the two bottlings I have reviewed have been outstanding!
($50 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive

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