2013 Domaine A et P de Villaine, Mercurey “Les Montots” Red Burgundy, France.
Aubert de Villaine’s family estate in Bouzeron is still one of the best deals in fine and early drinking Burgundy wines, these wines are a far cry from his day job wines at Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, where he is the managing director, but they make for exciting and well crafted offerings for savvy wine buyers and enthusiasts. Imported by Kermit Lynch, the de Villaine wines have a very sexy appeal and can be outstanding, and they usually are fruit forward, but with poise and vibrancy that give them the ability to age well, even though I would bet most people enjoy them young and fresh. The estate is farmed with biodynamic practices and the wines show a beautiful inner energy and charm, especially good in this 2013 vintage are the Rully white and in particular this wonderful Mercurey red, which is full of flavor and intensity, and if I’m honest I like it better than the more acclaimed 2010 and 2012 vintages, this is really stylish and excellent stuff. The 2013 de Villaine Mercurey Les Montots starts with an almost Gamay expression with dark floral scents, spice and juicy berry fruits leading the way, but starts to tighten up and get focus on the palate with pure Pinot character coming through with tangy red cherry, plum, red peach flesh and black raspberry layers along with mineral, pepper, cinnamon, cedar and sweet tea notes, the mouth feel is robust, but medium bodied making for a focused and vivid Burgundy. The wine changes a bit in the glass, it keeps your attention with much allure and detail, and the finish is crisply zesty, though with lovely lingering currant and strawberry fruit as well as hints of anise, saline and truffle, drink from 2016 to 2022.
($48 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
