2009 Hilberg-Pasquero, Barbera D’ Alba DOC, Piedmonte, Italy.
Michele Pasquero’s unique expression of Barbera is gaining him praise and making his Hilberg label a hot item these days, and I finally got a chance to try his wine and I was not disappointed at all, this is a brilliant Barbera. The 2009 Hilberg-Pasquero, Barbera D’ Alba is a stylish wine with an artisan touch, with a nose that is full of roses, herbs, mineral spice and dried currants leads to a sweet and savory palate that features an almost Nebbiolo like structure and with a briar and tarry essence. The mouth is full of red fruits, lavender oil, licorice and plum sauce notes, it gains in fruit as it opens with blackberry and cherry coming forward, but it stays refined, vibrant and elegant all the way to the zesty and spicy finish. This is not a dark purplely Barbera, it is more subtle and wily in its charms, without question a very intriguing wine from a passionate and talented winemaker. I am a huge Barbera fan and love Altare, La Spinetta, Grosso and Vietti versions to name a few, but this Hilberg is right up there and one I’ll be re-visiting often I’m sure.
($24 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive