2011deMontillePommard2011 Domaine de Montille, Pommard “Les Pezerolles” Premier Cru, Red Burgundy, France.
It was sad news the world of wine got on Nov 1, 2014 when we learned of the death of Volnay’s Hubert de Montille, a Cote d’Or legend, he was a larger than life figure, brilliant and prickly, and he will be missed, especially by Burgundy lovers around the globe that have collected his terroir driven and age worthy wines. While it is true, he was a powerful personality and at times confrontational, it is hard to keep his sometimes less appealing views against him, and his public dislike for things American and especially for Robert Parker will fade into the background, and we can remember his love of Burgundy and cherish the wines he influenced. Hubert de Montille was a traditionalist, but also a radical pioneer, he was a top lawyer and won many high profile cases in other career, which at times paid for the wine side of his life, he was one of the first Burgundy estates to sell finished/bottled wines only, not pre-selling his wines in barrel and he believed in long term cellaring of his wines before drinking them, never giving in to modern marketing or styles. His son and daughter have run the family estate, Domaine de Montille, for many years now with Etienne making the reds and his sister Alix, who is married to the famed Jean-Marc Roulot, crafts the whites. The Domaine is all organic and is going biodynamic, and they have now also added Domaine du Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet to their holdings in recent years. Hubert de Montille will live on, and his legacy will be his historic estate, vines and wines. In tribute the wine of day is the 2011 Domaine de Montille Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles, this gorgeous well proportioned and stylish red Burgundy is just starting to fill out and come to life, it should be peaking in about 8 to 12 years from now, but it sure is lovely even now, especially after a long few moments in the glass. The 2011 Les Pezerolles, lovingly crafted by Etienne de Montille, is a light ruby, almost pale, hued wine with medium weight and delicate layers, it is a true, classic and focused red Burgundy that gets more powerful and more interesting with every sip, it shows spicy red fruits, earthy intensity and a nice cut of acidity, while remaining quite generous and opulent in the mouth. The nose brings together earth, truffle, herbal notes, rose petals and red currant with a hint of kirsch leading to a vigorous palate of cherry, plum, and raspberry red fruits, peppery spice, cedar, anise, mineral and touch of saddle leather and smoked meats with just a kiss of oak. This is a serious, and beautiful detailed wine, it is a wine that leaves an impression on you and gives you plenty to think about, it is a fitting way to remember Hubert de Montille, and celebrate his life, and knowing the future of his life’s work is in good hands. Drink this lovely and distinct Pommard from 2018 to 2027.
($124 Est.) 94+ Points, grapelive

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