2018 Domaine Courbet, Château Chalon, Vin Juane, Côtes du Jura, France.
The unique Vin Jaune from Domaine Courbet in the Jura region of france is a Sherry like concentrated dry wine with nutty and waxy flavors and stinging acidity, showing off lemon, fleshy peach, dried apricot, quince paste and a background of pecan husk, orange oil, chalky stones, resiny herbs, straw and roasted almond. This is really for the Jura geeks and is best served with a cheese plate, but Courbet’s version is very well done and a fine example of the region’s style. Coming from Jurassic limestone stone soils in the AOC Château Chalon, the Savagnin grapes are hand-harvested and after pressing, fermented in barrel on its fine lees with only indigenous yeast and the naturally occurring flor (yeast). The winery says It is then aged in barrel (topped off) until the following summer with some lees stirring, and is then assembled and transferred into neutral barrels located in a separate above ground cellar for 6 more years of aging. The wine will not be topped off during this time, allowing the flor to develop on the surface of the wine which will protect it from oxidation and allow the wine to evaporate and concentrate naturally over time, as seen here.
As noted in prior reviews, the all biodynamic Domaine Courbet estate flies under the radar, but is one of the oldest and most traditionally natural family estates in the Jura and Château Chalon, which was originally founded in 1869 with vineyards, livestock and grains. Over generations Domaine Courbet gradually evolved to grow only grapes and make wine here for the last 50 years and is now run by the father and son tram of Jean-Marie and Damie Courbet. Their estate is tiny by modern standards at just about 7.5 hectares of vineyards, but with prime parcels in the famed Château-Chalon, as well as plots around Domblans and Menétru. Courbet’s US West Coast importer Beaune Imports says the reds, all farmed Biodynamic since 2005, like their Poulsard, this Trousseau, as well as the Pinot Noir, are grown in light marne soils with some limestone, which contribute to the wines having distinct terroir. I was thrilled to taste through the current releases here at Courbet, courtesy of Beaune Imports and I was very impressed with the whole lineup, with the reds, especially the Trousseau and the Poulsard being standouts. I would recommend Courbet for long time fans of the Jura, as well as the new and curious of this mysterious old world region.
($99 Est. 620ML) 93 Points, grapelive