2011 Wellanschitz, Blaufränkisch “Hussi” Burgenland, Austria.
Wellanschitz is located in Neckenmarkt in the Mittelburgenland DAC and Burgenland region of eastern Austria near the Hungarian border in what is called Blaufrankisch-land, they are a small family run winery, with husband and wife, Stefan and Christine Wellanschitz running and making the wine here, in a state of the art cellar and focusing on mostly red wine growing. I recently did a panel on Austrian red wines and tasted through some of best and highly regarded producers from the top regions in Austria, so I was fresh and palate trained when I tasted a few samples of Wellanschitz, and they were very impressive, and in fact the Hussi single vineyard Cru was one of the best and most beautiful Blaufrankisch wines I’ve ever tasted, right up there with my favorites from Prieler and Muhr-van der Niepoort! Wellanschitz is now being imported by Bliss Wine Imports, a small natural wine importer focusing on tiny production hand crafted wines based in Marin County and San Francisco, and they have brought in two Blaufrankisch cuvees from Wellanschitz to start, this gorgeous Hussi and a less expensive easy drinking cuvee called Hochberg ($27 Est.), which is also a top class wine, but this 2011 Hussi Blaufrankisch is something rather special and shows exceptional inner beauty, terroir and class, it is a wine that reminds me of Philippe Pacalet (Burgundy), Jean Foillard (Cru Beaujolais) and Domaine Breton (Loire Chinon-Cabernet Franc) all wrapped up together! The Hussi is done “Sponti” with natural/native yeast and aged in wood, it shows good depth and density, though feels light and silky on the palate, there is an intense floral and mineral bouquet with black cherry and spicy plum fruit leading the way on the nose and palate along with complex, but smoothly flowing layers of currant, black olive, flinty/peppery spice, wild herbs both sweet and savory along with a light kiss of cedary oak and pipe tobacco, this is well judged wine with not detail out of place, it is focused, alive and extremely pleasing both in taste and feel, it has 14% alcohol and vibrant soft acidity and a lingering blue fruit finish. Drink from 2015 to 2021, it was a treat to try this wine and further explore hand crafted Blaufrankisch, bravo to Bliss Wine Imports for discovering this new winery, it will be one I look for in the future no question!
($46 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
