2014 Weingut von Hovel, Riesling, Oberemmeler Hutte, Kabinett, Saar Germany.
The 2014 von Hovel Kabinett Obermmeler Hutte Saar Riesling is delicately perfumed, light bodied and vibrant with a kiss of creamy sugar, this is classic and quality stuff. Balanced by fine mineral, spice and acidity the latest von Hovel shows precision and vitality throughout with traditional character and vigor, this pleasing Riesling was a treat to find by the glass at lunch recently, hats of the the wine director for their enlightened choice, it was a perfect afternoon, outdoor and food friendly white with low alcohol and it went gloriously with my spicy dish. The 2014 vintage von Hovel Obermmele Hutte Kabinett lifts from the glass with white flowers, rosewater, salty brine, zesty lemon, peach and wet stones along with a palate of pineapple, candied mango, lime, apricot and a touch of honeyed sweetness, while being fresh and steely. This is bright and highly pleasing Riesling from a winery that continues to impress, look for this is be a fun and youthful wine over the next 3 to 5 years, it also has enough pure extract and focus to age for a decade or so with ease. There is a lot of value in these Saar offerings, von Hovel especially is using this terroir not too far off the Mosel to produce classic style Rieslings of exceptional quality for the price, this is a great and underrated region to explore, in particular look for Selbach’s Saar bottling, Peter Lauer and von Hovel.
($18-24 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive