2021 Tenuta Fanti, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG “Vallocchio” Tuscany, Italy.
Coming from the estate’s oldest and most prized vines, the 2021 Fanti Brunello di Montalcino Vallocchio is rich and luxurious on the full bodied palate, it shows off an impressive depth and layering of dark fruits, spice, toasty wood and fabulous length. The mouth is rich in pure Sangiovese detail and delivers blackberry, currant, plum and strawberry fruits, along with anise, sweet sandalwood, incense, tobacco leaf, mocha and vanilla notes in a seamless flow, adding some savory and delicately earthy tones at just the right time and place to keep things authentic and interesting. This wine is modern day class and definitely a step up from the very good and tasty regular Brunello bottling here at Fanti. Sourced from five of Fanti’s best and oldest parcels in the Castelnuovo dell’Abate terroir, that dates back to the 14th century, located between “Podio Rubeo” and “Piage di Monte Caprile” which are noted for complexity, aromatics and long aging potential, which is all on display here in this 2021 vintage. The first vintage of Vallocchio was made in 2010, and these vines are rooted in galestro and well draining soils, giving that structure and fruit density, with an elevation of around 350 meters above sea level, adding some fine balance with natural acidity. The dark garnet color is wonderfully inviting and the subtle floral aromas enticing, but it is the texture and feel that sets this wine apart, this is outstanding youthful Brunello that will continue to refine and develop over the next 10 years!
The Fanti Family has been producing wine, most notably their Brunello post WWII, and-extra virgin olive oil in Tuscany for the better part of 200 years. I learned that In the 1970s, current owner Filippo first took over Fanti, which is a major turning point in its history, leading to much greater quality and fame within the region of Montalcino. After redesigning and replanting across its 300 hectare, an innovation-meets-tradition winemaking technique was adopted here and this resulted in better grape growing, all while avoiding any non-organic fertilizers and promoting sustainable viticulture. Eighty percent of the plantings in the vineyards at Fanti, not surprisingly are Sangiovese or Sangiovese Grosso (Brunello clone), a focus that reinforces, what the family says, is a commitment to the top quality wine of the region, reflected in their highly rated Brunelli offering, like this one. Filippo’s daughter Elisa, who I’ve met in recent years, joined the team in 2007 and has since been instrumental promoting Fanti to the world, through extensive travel to the best markets, including San Francisco, where I last caught up with Fanti and tasted this wine. The powerfully rich Vallocchio saw alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with a lengthy all de-stemmed maceration before going to barrels to mature for 36 months. The wine rested in French oak, 50% in large casks, 10% in first pass new tonneaux, and 40% in second pass tonneaux, which allows for a smoothing of tannins and still allows for a sense of purity and transparency.
($75 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive