2009BenevelliBarolo2009 Piero Benevelli, Barolo “Ravera” DOCG, Monforte d’ Alba, Piedmonte, Italy.
Kermit Lynch has raided Italy again, sticking to Piedmonte, to find another wonderful small hand crafted producer, Massimo Benevelli a winemaker at his family’s winery in Monforte d’ Alba. Massimo makes classic Dolcetto and Barolo that is now imported to the US by Kermit Lynch, with the first two offerings being the 2012 Dolcetto and this glorious 2009 Ravera Barolo, both wines are worth searching out, these are well judged and true reds that reflect traditional artisan winemaking and showcase fine terrors. The 2009 Benevelli Barolo Ravera highlights the vintage’s character with ripe fruit, silky tannins and density, this was an open year in Piedmonte giving generous wines, there is good depth and complexity in the Ravera and a sexy long finish. The wine starts with a mix of earthy herbs and spices and floral tones with hints of mineral and kirsch, this is pure Nebbiolo with dark cherry, damson plum and soy dipped strawberry along with juicy raspberry, candied citrus rind, black licorice, tar, briar and game. The acidity and tannin play a key role, though not intrusive, everything flows nicely on the palate and there is subtle saline and savory elements that add counterweight to the lush fruit, and there is no sense of oak, just a kiss of cedar spice, this is lovely stuff that leaves a well earned smile on your face and a lingering memory, drink 2014 to 2021.
($48 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive

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