2013 Francine et Olivier Savary, Chablis, Selection Vieilles Vignes, White Burgundy, France.
The Savary Old Vine Chablis is a wonderful Chardonnay, it is known to bring joy and laughter and brighten even the darkest day, it is easy on the wallet and oh so rewarding, with the new release 2013 being a glorious wine as well. Since discovering this for myself with their 2007 vintage, the Savary Old Vines has always been a top pick in my book, there is superb quality, great price and lots to admire in complexity, terroir and energy in these wines, and for me, I like the Old Vines just as much as the higher priced Premier Cru if not more. I have tended to call the Savary Chablis the Baby Raveneau, since not only do these wines offer sublime pleasure, and look a bit like them with a little yellow wax top, but because Bernard Raveneau himself did lend a talented hand to the Savary’s and has consulted for them, along with the Collet brothers and Kermit Lynch their importer being influential, this is not to take anything away from the Savary’s (they have really come into their own as winegrowers) themselves and I admire and respect the hard work and their beautiful plots of vines very much, and I do myself buy more than a few bottles to consume of their handiwork. The 2013 is surprisingly full, vigorous and intense with a leesy smoky nose, lively acid rich palate and a striking steely core, if blind tasted I might go for a Grand Cru or Premier Cru at least, this is awesome stuff, and drinking remarkably poised even now with vivid layers, vitality and persistence. The nose is smoky, mineral laced and with a hint of salty goodness with white flowers, green apple and citrus leading to a bright and zesty palate of lemon/lime, apple and subtle peach with wet river stones, liquid steel, melon, flinty spice and a hint of soft cream, while always being razor sharp, focused and full of drive, lingering with some more citrus and a touch of pear and chalky aftertaste, brilliant in everyday, drink from 2015 to 2022.
($28 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive