2022 Domaine Michelot, Meursault “Les Narvaux” white Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, France.
Those savvy enough or have a long history of drinking white Burgundy, especially Meursault will know, that even though “Les Narvaux” is not a Premier Cru, it is an awesome plot of terroir and some fantastic Chardonnay grows there, so I was thrilled to try an under the radar example from this site, which was a go to for me in the past, and I was not disappointed, as Domaine Michelot made a beauty from the 2022 vintage! This gorgeous pale gold/straw hued Meursault is deep and complex, showing the year’s concentration, but also a fine balance, mineral tones, subtle aromatics and a medium full palate of apple, pear, peach and lemony fruit, along with wet flint, clove spice, delicate white flowers, honeyed hazelnut and a lingering chalky element. The Les Narvaux is set on classic clay and limestone with a chalky stone underpinning and sustainably grown 100% old clone Chardonnay, which transmits a pure sense of place and Michelot did a fabulous job of expressing it all here with this 2022. This wine, which shows only a hint of reductiveness, was raised in neutral cask and maybe some glass jars, is richly flavored and impresses for its purity, mineral focus and class, is one I would highly recommend looking for, especially with the nose bleed prices of Premier Cru Meursault these days, this one offers a quality to price ratio that makes it even more attractive. I again would definitely encourage Burgundy fans to explore more of the Michelot offerings, with their range of whites from Santenay, Puligny-Montrachet and other Meursault efforts being my choice of places to start, with the Les Narvaux in particular a priority.
The Domaine Michelot, which was all new to me, according to their importer Massanois, has been in the Michelot family for more than six generations, with Jean-François Mestre and young Nico, the seventh generation, running the show here now, and, having increased in size over the years, now comprises more than 19 hectares of vines, with Meursault being the star parcels here. These Meursault vineyard plots are made up of a number of “terroirs” that Massanois adds are parcels of land with individual characteristics of soil, drainage and orientation and (show) their distinct personalities in a diverse range of wines. This Les Narvaux plot is located at the top of the hillside, above the Meursault Premier Cru Genevrières, talk about pedigree, and faces mostly South with a 20% grade, which gives a ripe exposure and venting, helping ensure perfect grapes at harvest. Since around 2015, Domaine Michelot has seen a real lift in quality, I suspect has come from focusing on each individual parcel and employing a no oak or low oak regime, almost across the whole line of the Chardonnay offerings here. Interestingly, Michelot has been experimenting with stone fermenters and, cement vat, stainless steel, plus a bit of 500L neutral oak Puncheon, well used hogsheads and even glass globes, which are now used either by themselves or in combination for raising their Meursault, which has allowed for transparency, depth and leesy charm, all without clouding the wines with too much wood. As noted before, Raphael Coche, of the legendary Domaine Coche Dury, says that he doesn’t understand why Domaine Michelot is “not as well-known as us,” it’s a clear indication that Domaine Michelot is doing something exceptionally right!
($95 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive